Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Adventures in Andalucia - Part Cinco

Sunday September 20th: One month until our 30th Anniversary but no time for musing, we are off to El Borge for Dia De La Pasa - the Festival of the Raisin!.

But before festivities begin we are headed towards Comares, an Andalucian white village. Jess expertly manouvered the Hyundai through the passes of the Axarquia (the land to the east of Malaga), and up the mountain road. We parked some distance from the summit and commenced our day's fitness test.

Just when you were convinced the slope could not have become more vertical, a steeper path lay ahead. Steep, that's not steep! inferred the local ancient as she expertly drove her zimmer-frame up the calle at a fair clip.

Ceramic panels depicting various events in the villages' history were located at strategic spots and vistas. A statue depicting the Verdialis (a local step similar to morris dancing) was positioned on the roof of a casa blanco below. Sweating profusely, we finally reached the gates of the cemetary. Unbelievably, Wendy's brightly flowered shirt provided camouflage amongst the floral tributes to the dearly departed.

Parking was at a premium at El Borge and we were directed to a dry arroyo where vehicles were carefully abandoned. Should a flash flood occur, the Spanish motor insurance industry will never recover.

Arriving at the first plaza we were treated to a display of straw surfing by a local farmer. Carefully balanced on a flat wooden platform he urged his pair of donkeys around a circular track of hay cuttings. Nearby one of the competing pandas (dance troupes), rhythmically strummed, clicked and cavorted amidst the crowd gathered to witness some grape stomping.

As the main program was due to commence at 2.00pm, we ate at a bodega where paella, skewered chicken pincitos and drinks for six cost the princely sum of 20 euros. Clutching our tinto retadas we sat down under the sunshade to await the entertainment. A gentleman in an orange shirt played a short program of Spanish guitar that Shane informed us was the sound-check. A pigeon-pair of minor celebrities then jostled each other for control of the mike at volumes loud enough to be heard back in Riogordo.

The stage was then filled with the ample figures of the womens' choral group Coro Rociero La Bizmaga. Clad in flattering gowns of patterned musk-stick pink, they regaled us with tales of life, love and lust. My attention was riveted on Carmen of the Casternets who had a sweet smile and the hips of a...., a....., (No, that would be cruel!). They were soon followed by Seville's extraordinary flamenco singers D-Azahar who professed to be thrilled to be invited to such an important fiesta.

In addition to the official program, a number of side-shows attracted our attention. Spontaneous outbreaks of dancing would start with one notable example: Jorge, a local lothario with maccassered mullet and attention-seeking puce shirt, intently strutted his stuff with a succession of eager suitors.

We joined a throng clamouring to get their hands on a local dish of beef and liver stew. God! said John McG It's either very good or they must be giving it away. It was, and they were!. The runny fragrant stew, cooked in outside village ovens, was accompanied by local potato salad and toasted breadcrumbs cooked in a two-metre diameter paella pan.

If this is what they do to celebrate the raisin, I would love to know what they do with a whole grape!!.

As we made our way back to the car we noted the straw-surfing had proved a hit, and a young grommet was clinging tightly to the legs of the revolving Big Kahuna.

To be concluded....

Adventures in Andalucia - Part Cuatro

It is already Saturday and we are headed for Seville - how did a week pass so quickly?

A large black silhouette appeared on the horizon - it was El Toro and he was complete! Limestone caves pock-marked the adjacent rock face. Nearby the flamingo breeding grounds attract up to 32,000 each season requiring no assistance from El Toro. Jess steered the van off Autovia 92 for morning refreshments at Benta Los Cazaones. A long table bearing an assortment of knick-knacks was being attended by a tanned Brit ex-patriot and his freckled wife.

They owned apartments for rent, but business must have been slow for the offering included the Complete Beatles Recording Sessions for only 10 euro. "That cost me 40 quid, new", said Allan through uneven white teeth surmounting gold chains. Allan was a big Buddy Holly fan and had spent thousands on his passion. I requested he reserve the book for me while we had our coffee. Wendy said "It will probably cost 15 euros by the time you return".

Finishing my fresh orange juice I headed outside to banter. "Like the 60's?" he said as an opening gambit. We discussed the merits of our music and that rubbishy rap and told me his sister had once sold a Burns Bison guitar to Hank B Marvin. I responded by informing him Hank had seen the light and now lived in WA. "Watch out for those thieves in the West End" he warned as we resumed our journey.

Entering Seville we passed the Real Betis' Stadium located on Avenue Palmeros. The buildings were built in the late 20's for the Exposicion Ibero Americana just prior to the crash of '29.  "Another example of Spanish economic incompetence" offered Shane.

We set off into Seville and as we rounded Plaza Salvadore, Catedral Seville loomed into view - the Catedral is the third largest in the world in terms of footprint and the largest in volume. Gypsies plied their trade offering sprigs of herbs to the queue as a ploy to engaging suckers into having their futures read for a yet to be determined price.

Once inside we were awed by the vaulted ceilings that reach 37 metres at the centre of the transept. We wandered through the many chapels, sacristies, alters and tombs including that of Christopher Columbus. The Catedral was built on the site of Seville's main Mosque and Minaret in 1344 and was consecrated as a cathedral in 1248. A climb up the Giralda Bell Tower finished us off.

After stopping in a shop to purchase some postcards we headed towards the Real Alcazar. The Alcazar, resident to many generations of Kings and Caliphs is Seville's answer to Granada's Alhambra. This beautiful and intriguing complex is intimately associated with the lives and loves of the extraordinary Pedro I of Castille (Pedro the Cruel).

Upon leaving the Alcazar, Shane suggested either a walk around the city's parklands or alternatively we could hire a horse-drawn coach. Eagerly we opted for the latter and were soon clip-clopping around the pebbled pavement under the direccio of Diego, our coachman. A trip took us past Seville's oval shaped bullring, the Tower of Gold and into various parks. The triumphant statue of El Cid waved us by.

....to be continued.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Adventures in Andalucia - Part Tres#2

Once home we stepped off to the internet shop to email and blog. Task undertaken and tapas consumed, we left for another of Riogordos' hot spots for dinner.

The tables at Meson la Era were reserved for dinner when we entered- yes, but not for tonight as it turned out - Friday was a quiet one and we supped alone. Scanning the menu and passing on the soup with garlic shorts (some problems with the translation....), I requested Pongame callos poir favor. Sorry, no tripe, is not in season. Huh?????. I'm sure I saw cows today.

Once satisfied , our post-repast perambulation took us up a steep hill and towards the town's cultural centre. Inside, the community choir of mature women sang a primitive song accompanied by a strange percussion instrument requiring goat skins and moist sticks.

Completely spooked, we headed home.

.....to be continued.

Adventures in Andalucia - Part Tres

..A terrible night's sleep but no slacking. Shane is arriving at 8.30 for our trip to Ronda. As we pass out of the town the lattice of olive groves is illuminated by the morning sun.

Appropriately, given our trip to Ronda, a herd of bulls were grazing on the sparse pickings of the nearby pasture. Shane's explanation for the sudden appearance of the massed bovine was that it was Big Cow Friday (bit of a joker our Shane). We passed through Campillos, site of many leather apparel factories with attendant bars. There are more bars in Spain than there are in the rest of Europe! In fact there are 350,000 - must try most of them.

Outside Campillos we passed by a factory that manufactured brightly coloured children's rides - huge pink swans and multi-coloured side show dodgems. Turning left off the A road we drove through Teba the site of a Crusader battle between the Moors and the Earl of Montrose in 1350.

Ronda is the fastest growing town in Spain, partially due to a number of television series being made in Ronda in summer - in winter the rain is horizontal due to the wind. Ronda is a beautiful town with a rich history of siege and counter siege built around the deep gorges.

Ronda is also the site of the oldest and most venerated bull ring in Spain. To test the quality of the bull ring I swished Kim's red wrap about a few times and only got gored a bit. The outstanding features of the sandstone built ring are its elegant proportions highlighted by the two story arcade of Tuscan columns. Since 1954 the famous Corrida Goyesca takes place at the beginning of September each year; due to the popularity of the event tickets change hands for amounts in excess of 1000 euros.

By 2.00 pm we were starting to get a bit peckish. Across the plaza, down an alley, across a street and up another alley and we were at La Tabena de Antonio. Antonio wasn't there, but Paco was. Mine host's name was actually Francesco but everyone new him as Nancy - just joking! Nobody called Paco Nancy if they knew what was good for them. Paco's wife, Maria, operating out of a postage sized cochina provided a steady stream of tapas valued at 1 to 2 euros. We enjoyed pincho de polla (chicken on skewers), pate de Pendiz and alca chofitas (dressed baby artichokes).

Following tapas we continued down Los Remedios for coffee and dessert. The four Americanos cut through the sweetness of the heavy sweet pastry and cream. I opted for a chocolate shell filled with cream and walnuts and Kim consumed an apple flan.

The trip back to Rio Gordo was pretty uneventful but was enlivened by the site of a mother carefully walking home a freshly laundered Flamenco dress in Santa Ana.

.....to be continued (now we have wi fi again)

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Adventures in Andelucia - Part Dos

Boing!, boing!, boing!, boing!, boing!, boing!, boing!, boing!, the church bell tolled 8.00am not twenty metres from my ear. Opening the front door, a cool breeze swept up Calle de la Inglese from the sun-kissed hills beyond.


Our day-trip was due to start in an hour and we had not eaten. As I turned to start toasting, Bang!. I ventured back out the wooden front door to observe a small green car extracting itself from the church wall. "O my gawd.......", the expression on the faces of the driver and the ancient passing local said it all - was this a greater sin than mortal?. The driver peered guiltily at his crushed petrol cap and rear bumper: God 1 - local 0.


Shane arrived promptly at 9.00am and we rolled out of town for a day trip to Cordoba. Almond trees, freshly harvested, stood in geometrically arranged stands on the nearby hills. Billboard advertising is not permitted along Spanish motorways (Autovias) and companies wishing to promote their products have to think a bit differently. Osborne Sherry have therefore installed 25 huge black metal bulls across Andalucia - when the authorities attempted to have them removed, local protests overcame the government action.


Just before arriving in Cordoba we saw two nesting storks sitting atop an old chimney; below extensive scorching of the fields showed evidence of recent burnt olive stumps. Cordoba has had a very interesting history with the Moors governing for 700 years until around 1500. Shane told us of the various significant historical figures responsible for greatly influencing Arab, Jewish and European philosophical thinking.

Near an impressive brass statue a Flamenco guitarist entertained the crowd. We gave him some Euros because he was playing an unamplified guitar unlike almost all other guitarists who insist on ruining their performances with amplification and accompanying percussion.

The major feature of Cordoba was the Mezquita which is regarded as only the second in importance to Mecca by Muslims. The mineret has been built around by Christians converting it into a belltower for the Cabildo Catedral. It is most impressive! The ochre and sand coloured arches support the roof of the building as large as St Marks Piazza in Venice. Many chapels are included in the Catedral with our favourite being one featuring a statue of Christ dressed as a Roman Centurion.

We left the Catedral and headed off for tapas and alcoholic refreshment (again). Bodeges Mezquita adjacent to Catedral provided spectacular tapas including wild mushroom croquettes, grilled baby squid and slow cooked venison being the standouts. I finished with Helado Artesamo de Turron = home made nougat icecream....yum.

We returned to the car through Cordobas retail centre noting various Roman architectural remnants and Spanish monuments. Upon reaching home we decided to eat in on the rooftop terrace testing out my new dish spaghetti Rio Gordo.

.....to be continued

Friday, September 18, 2009

Adventures in Andalucia

Hola,

Sorry about the delay. We have no wi fi for our laptop and have to rely on the local internet cafe to open which isn"t often as they have siestas all the time. Also we have been out from fairly early in the morning each day.

We vacated De La Indepencia 350 Barcelona Wednesday morning for our train that would take us to Andalucia. The first part of our trip took us initially along the coast and then onto the flat wastelands of Aragon - a landscape so devoid of features it would be rejected for spaghetti westerns because it was too bleak.

Ancient fortified structures could be seen from the train around Calitayud and just south of the town minature meses and buttes abound. Fields of solar panels competed with olive groves for primero situacion.

After travelling at more than 300 kph we reached our destination, Santa Ana Antequera railway station on time and were met by our host in Rio Gordo, Shane. After moving into our accommodation we undertook a familiarisation tour of Rio Gordo (Fat River) noting the various bars and restaurants. The old but renovated white casa we are staying in has a third floor rooftop balcony overlooking the whitewashed houses, church, olive groves and surrounding mountains - perfect.

For dinner that night we went to Bar Molina sharing the hospitality with local townsfolk intent on following Barcelona´s progress in the UEFA Cup. Skewers of garlic prawns and fried octopus were washed down with bottles of the local beer and a bottle of the house red. Satisfied, we wandered home along the pebbled, narrow street.

.....to be continued

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Gaudi but not gawdy

On this, our last night in Catalan central, I thought rather than provide too much verbage about who did what to whom etc, a stream of consciousness would suffice.

I have a new favourite subject for hagiography - St Antonin Maria Claret - now there's a saint I could get devoted to.

It is remarkable what an effect Gaudi's has had on Barcelona, not just churches, houses, and municipal fittings, but the most unlikely objects - how about a Vespa!.

We observed two young Cataluns on pushbikes unsuccessfully drag-racing a black and yellow taxi down Las Ramblas - despite their countrymen's apparent melancholy these two were ever hopeful.

Our tapas being served by a waiter who was a dead ringer for Yves Montands in some SBS 50's movie I saw late one night.

Hawkers attempting to sell the most useless gee-gaws and nick-nacks at every tourist hotspot accompanied by gypsies with both hands out.

A metro system that works so well you feel ripped off if you have to wait more than two minutes.

Our tour guide to Montserrat sporting an umbrella identical to Hagrid's wand in Harry Potter.

The only factory wall not graffitied being one owned by Struth S.A.

Spanish Rockabillies

Kim's first utterance after retrieving her errant baggage from Heathrow's lost luggage office: "Thank God, now I can change my earrings".

Monday, September 14, 2009

Life in a northern town

Hola,

Sorry for the delay. Here's an update

After a fairly rocky start - delayed flight, missed connection, Heathrow/Lost Luggage for two days - need I say more?, we are well into our Catalonian adventure. I almost said Spanish, and would have had to been hung, drawn and quartered.

We made a pilgrimage to Montserrat yesterday to see the Black Madonna, who's miraculous powers protected us in our bus trip up and down the precipitous road. Kim wasn't too keen on having the window seat, but is better for the experience.

We are off to see more of the local sights today (Picasso Museum, Parc Guell) having previously been to Gaudi's extraordinary Sagrada Familia Cathedral and wandered with the hordes along La Ramblas. This is a beautiful City with lots to see and do.

Until next time.

Adios

John and Kim

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Still in Canberra


One day to go. We fly out September 11, should be safe enough?

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

HI I AM JOHN!