Autumnal Paris ~ Part Deux

Sunday 18th October

Le musique accordian faded away as we left Rue Mouffetard and headed in the direction of the Seine. Along past the Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle, through the Jardine des Plantes where families cavorted, and onto Pont d'Austelitz for a photo session. More picture-perfect postcard conditions. Packed cruise boats shared the water with all manner of barges.

We walked along le Quays various in the direction of Notre Dame, stopping by the iconic postcard and souvenir stalls to check out their offerings. Being Sunday, mass was being held in the Cathedral, and despite the teeming, snapping tourist hordes, a performance by an accompanied choral group made the visit special. Ever hopeful, we lit another candle for my Aunty Ollie.

Our friend from Canberra, Gaik, rang Kim to arrange an evening meeting. We eagerly accepted her invitation to visit the oldest church in Paris for a piano recital commencing at 6.00pm. To ensure our success, we found St Julien Le Pauve close to Notre Dame, and following a late panini lunch in Square Viviani, started walking back to La Mouff. A couple of warming glasses of red in Place de la Contrescarpe and back to No. 78 to change.

Fifteen minutes after leaving our apartment we arrived at the church to meet Gaik, her sister Chu and husband John, and our friend Petal from Canberra. The Steinway concert grand piano gleamed at the front of the church as pianist Jean-Christophe Millot bowed to the assembly and sat down to play. To our uneducated ears two separate programs of Beethoven and Chopin were performed magnificently in the 12th century stone church. I was particularly taken by a complicated Chopin nocturne that used the Steinway's sustain to great effect. Altogether a most unexpected but fantastic feature of our time in Paris.

Leaving St Julien in the descending dark, we set off for our dinner destination with Gaik leading. Unfortunately, Chu, Petal and John went in an altogether different direction. Sensing we were alone, Gaik phoned to seek directions and we soon were one once again outside Shakespeare and Co close to the Seine. Crossing Rue Mazarine, we entered a warm and inviting restaurant with an impressive wine list. Pate de foie gras featured prominently, however Kim and I settled for baked Atlantic salmon and a rack of lamb respectively. Both were superb. Dessert was a shared wedge of Munster cheese accompanied by a pot of fragrant honey.

Leaving the restaurant, we walked up onto a bridge over the Seine to view the lights sparkling on the nearby Eiffel Tower. We proceeded along the riverbank and left up Rue de Seine where many art galleries were located. A print by Cubist Fernand Leger occupied pride of place in a well lit window. La Poissionary, a possible 30th anniversary restaurant, was located before we wished Gaik and Co. good night, and headed off for a leisurely late night stroll home via Boulevard St Germain.