LOUTRAKI #2

It may not be everyone's idea of a holiday town with favoured tavernas plonked in the middle of municipal utility terminals and abandoned housing shells crumbling into dusty weeds, but Loutraki is handily located for access to the seaside attractions and towns of the Peloponnese Peninsula.  The panoramic views of the sparkling Gulf of Corinth from our B&B are unbeatable and the covered verandah the perfect place to dine.  It is, however, the daily civilian activities that make Loutraki so memorable.

There is an ancient Greek custom where men in large groups congregate at coffee shops drinking coffee, playing backgammon and talking very loudly.  Just men, mind you.  Little old ladies plonk themselves down on the busy pavement in comfy chairs watching the passing parade and young dudes on push bikes in message T-shirts do wheelies and call each other Spiro. It is obvious that Greece has an extravagant number of service stations and pharmacies, however while servos are always open, pharmacies rarely are.  I also understand why Greek run grocery stores are so Australian.  They are everywhere, as are pastry shops and gelato bars.  

Taking a number at the post office is worthwhile even if only to purchase stamps.  Fifteen minutes reading yesterday's UK Sunday Times passed before my #16 was called.  Following a three way discussion determining what value stamp I required, I attempted to leave, but due to the speed at which my transaction was completed, I was required to go around again!

The Hellenic traffic laws are something to wonder at. Should a driver wish to pick up a coffee or chat to a mate, it seems perfectly acceptable to just stop and hop out leaving the car and it's indicators flashing.  Greek drivers are remarkably patience and horns don't start blaring until 3 minutes have passed ~ just time for an espresso.  Motor scooters peer out from behind buses before weaving haphazardly through the traffic.  Pedestrian crossings are just for decoration and cars are parallel parked two, sometimes three deep on both sides of the road.  Oh, and you are driving on the wrong side of the road!  

Exiting the town by road is fraught with danger. It is therefore a pleasant surprise when you cross the remarkable Corinth Canal and hit the three lane autobahn. The Peloponnese Peninsula is spectacular with craggy crevasses, laden fruit and olive plantations, archaeology sites and foliage covered mountains.  Even the secondary roads are notable with frequent roadside altars and indicative archaeological signage. Regular comfort stops and overtaking on double yellow lines appears to be obligatory.