Tuesday, September 11, 2018


ZURICH #2

Akin to a bedraggled Bluesfest program after 5 intensive days, a European city map reveals a patina of constant perusal.  Switching from the all encompassing municipal map, to the Old Town walking tour mit features, and thence to the public transport grid leaves the double sided nine leaf guide decidedly frayed.  Munich's must-have manual to a good time is one of the robust ones.

Kim's inner compass took a rare RDO and I had to assure her we were on the right track. Routes #4 or #6 would deposit us near Zurich's Old Town and tomorrow's target Bahnhofplatz.  The 12.10 to Zermatt beckons.  It's strangely satisfying how these exotic names become everyday destinations.

Once we were assured, the "world famous" shopping mile on Bahnhofstrasse beckoned.  I must have been playing hooky the day that one was distributed.  According to the list of Zurich's highlights "Here department stores, boutiques and jewellery stores can be found one after another. The further you walk towards Lake Zurich, the more exclusive the stores become."

Dodging trams and yet more Audis, we made it across that world famous strasse and popped into the Lacosse store.  Zurich sales assistants greet you with a Swiss Germanic term I have yet to decifer leaving your fallback to your mother tongue.  They all understand English and have begun to query whether you're covered by the appropriate visa.  As far as they are concerned Brexiteers are a bit dodgy.  My Fred Perry polo only reinforced their concerns.

To our right a slightly bent laneway enticed.  "You must try our soap madam, it will change your life" murmured the smartly attired snake oil salesman.  "No thank you" Kim replied.  As we entered the next store we could hear him say "You must try........".  The next store carried a range of essential homewares including a pair of sunnies Kim simply had to have.

At the top of the intersecting street we remarked how similar it was to Rue Mouffetard in Paris.  A water fountain topped with a statue took pride of place over the descending strip of Italian bistros and brasseries lining Spitalgasse.  History has fashioned these thoroughfares rather than town planners, and the street bumped and ground like a burlesque artist.  An inviting table outside Big Ben Pub enticed and we were soon enjoying a weisswein and a pint of Smithwick's ale.

Zurich's Coop supermarket chain offer a range of premade dishes you simply reheat.  We opted for Schnitzel and salad with a very respectable Cotes du Rhone red wine. The cost? About the same as a serving of hot chips anywhere else.  Our early 11.00 departure from Zurich coincided with the erection of a large marquee emblazoned Oktoberfest ~ September 13 to October 6!  Nothing like getting in early.

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