Marvellous Madrid

Tuesday 22 September

Up bright and early again as Shane and Jess were arriving to transfer us to our train at Antequera station. Bidding a fond farewell we boarded the train and deperted on time at 9.28 for Madrid.

After a pleasant trip with breakfast provided, we arrived at 11.50am and using Susannah's instructions were soon at No. 5 1A Calle Ancora. After familiarising ourselves with the neighbourhood and visiting the ATM and Supermercado for essentials, we set off for the nearest Metro Station. Palos de la Frontera was two blocks away and we were soon emerging into Madrid's central shopping zone - Solo.

We headed East, and after skirting around Plaza Mayor and its offerings at tourist trap prices, we arrived at Palaco Real and the National Armoury buildings. Wendy's opinion was that the Palace surpassed Buckingham Palace - we shall see. Walking back via Jardines Del Cabo Noval we passed by Teatro Real and the Opera House. The shops along Calle Del Arena included a fantastic delicatessan offering beautiful cheeses and smallgoods, and nearby we visited Madrid's DJ's - El Corte Ingles. The streets were packed with elegantly dressed Spaniards who were being entertained by a cavalcade of street performers and placade toting hopefuls.

Returning via the Metro to our neighbourhood in Centrale, we stopped at our local, Bar Soria, for tapas and drinks, followed soon after by a shared dinner of calamari and braised squid. We were fortunate to have the services of a multi-lingual Romanian waitress who suggested our suggestions, including a cream laden caramel dessert.

Wednesday 23 September

Breakfasted, we headed off for the Museo del Prado located nearby. The Prado has a peerless collection of Spanish and European art numbering more than 7000 pieces, with more than 3500 on display. The collection is a window on the historical vagaries of the Spanish soul: grand and imperious in the Royal paintings of Velazquez, darkly tumultuous in the Pictures Negro of Goya, and outward looking in the sophisticated works from across Europe. Many of the subjects were determined by the Royal and religious patronage of the era with numerous depictions of the Crucifixion and Nativity.

My favourite paintings were those of Hieronymus Bosch and the Brueghels younger and elder. These were painted during the period 1500 to 1700 when the low countries and parts of Italy were under Spanish domination. In addition to the Spanish paintings many Italian painters were represented: Botticelli, Raphael, Titian, Caraveggio, Giordano and Tiepole. Many fine and delicately wrought busts and statues are also displayed. Although the paintings are of centuries past, the Prado is internally very modern, if housed in a Neo-classical building. It was designed by Juan de Villaeeve in 1785 on the orders of Carlos the Third and it opened as a museum in 1819.

We wandered home via the surrounding tree-lined streets and down past Estacion de Atocha to Calle Ancora. Madrid's lack of birdlife is compensated by the twittering sparrow sound of the pedestrian crossing lights - most musical! During siesta we Skyped with James and downed a few beers before I retired to beer for a few hours respite. All that culture takes it out of you.

Out along Calle Alcort to check out tonight's prospective dining establishments, we stopped for a little refreshment. Adjacent to the bar, an Asian Bazaar had just received a consignment of plastic lemon trees and the proprietor was doing her utmost with a sponge to make them irrestible at the bargain price of 10 euros. Instead, the passed parade stared incredulously at this botanical nonsence....You can't eat plastic lemons!

The bars were starting to overflow with futbol fans awaiting tonight's UEFA Cup fixture featuring Real Madrid. We traipsed around searching for a smoke-free environment and eventually settled for Patacon Pisao on Calle de la Delicas. Especialidid en Comida Colombianan boasted the menu. What a find! The barbecue pork and chicken were delicious and accompanied by a quartet of piquant sauces. The restarant's decor included an assortment of South American artifacts and the proprietoress featured predominantly on a photo wall of visiting Colombian celebrities. Delicious flans and good Colombian coffee completed the experience.

We wandered home replete through the perfect Madrid evening and the exultant footie fans.